So, we have had no new cases for, I think, 28 days now and there isn’t anyone in NZ who has Covid 19. With no foreign tourists, the campervan people have greatly reduced their prices. So now we decided is a great time to get out on the road.
Level 1 officially starts only at midnight tonight but in our travels on the road we have see a lot of level 1 behaviour.
Ana came for our first night so that was fun for all. Although Ana was a bit reluctant about the walking stuff.
Still it was fun in the van.
Since we took her back home we’ve spent two days in Coromandel and now moved on to Red Beach north of Auckland.
Tomorrow we’ll go further north, maybe Russell or the Kari Kari Peninsula
I first visited New Zealand in 1979 and again in 1980 but I’m not sure that I have photos, maybe somewhere. Of course it was a totally different experience then, a long trip too. Returning on BA 001 took something like 30 hours with stops (no getting off) in Sydney, Perth, Bombay and Frankfurt as I recall).
The cars were old and beaten up, “You’ve arrived in Auckland, please set your clocks back 20 years” as the old joke has it.
New Plymouth was the destination and seismic surveys over the Maui gas field. The 6 o’clock swill was still on. I’d never seen anything like it down at the dock bar in NP. The barmaid filling row upon row of pint glasses from a hose.
According to the article it was abolished in 1967 but not at the docks in New Plymouth I’m pretty sure – for the public bar anyway.
Hania and I came first in 2000 to see if it was a place we would like to settle in, hopefully our last move too. July was cold but clear for the most part and coming from Singapore we really appreciated it. We slept 10-12 hours for the most part – making up for the deficits of the previous 2 years – neither of us could sleep well there with the constant heat and humidity.
We were in a camper van and the first thing to buy was a hot air blower.
We arrived in Christchurch and our first stop was Akaroa – I still remember the fish and chips – a massive piece of blue cod and real potato chips.
Akaroa was originally settled by the French and the street names still recall that time – as does the graveyard.
Below is a bit of NZ history. Even in 2000 you could take your empty plastic coke bottle and fill at up with draft beer at the bottle shop.
I’m sure we have more photos from that trip somewhere because we travelled much of the central South Island in our 30 day stay.
Easter Sunday, except that we are holding Easter over until tomorrow so Mike can share it with us, he’s worked the past few days on the front line.
We have a whole lamb rack of ribs from the neighbours which I’ve never cooked before so tomorrow should be interesting. It’s not like the tiny racks I’ve cooked in the past, this was a sizeable animal.
Cleared up that front patch of the garden I’ve been meaning to do for a while now, looks pretty good. Mary Beadle was right about the palms, I left them and cleaned of the old leaves and pulled out the undergrowth as well.
Lucky that Bromley and Mary decided on February for their trip.
Just watched The Leisure Seeker with Hania. Makes you want to grab a Winnebago and drive right across the country. One day soon, before it’s too late.
OK, really running out of puff on the blog by now. Was a quiet day with work for me to do.
News today that we will see out the full 4 weeks at Level 4 and there is a new cluster in Christchurch around a rest home, hope they are all OK. They moved a number of people to hospital as a precautionary measure.
Some dud sneezed and coughed on people in a supermarket so he could put the “prank” on video on Facebook. Out on bail, I don’t know why he isn’t locked up.
We are seeing more “essential” goods coming on to the market via online delivery and there is talk of going to work on infrastructure projects. The “curve” here is pretty flat at this point and no more deaths although there is a possible second case in Wellington.
I wrote this after our first trip. It gives some impressions of the country fairlr soon after it was opened up from Khmer Rouge control. The city, the countryside and Angkor had very few visitors at that time.
We started in Phnom Penh where the paranoia was thick on the ground
from the moment we stepped off the aircraft, fair enough, we must have
brought some of it with us, like those extra pieces of hand-luggage you
always seem to acquire even though you had planned to “travel-light”.
Even so it was a scary place. Those 3 million or so land mines might
have something to do with it.
For me, the first journey from the airport to our respectable,
if modest, hotel was alarming. The Highway Code of Cambodia by all
appearances would fit onto the back of a postage stamp in Helvetica 12
point. Our driver would pull out into the main road (as often as not on
the wrong side) and then start to look for traffic.
The only rule we could perceive at first was “the bigger the
vehicle, the stronger its right of passage”. The most common form of
transport was the “moto” or motorcycle, usually fairly small but capable
of carrying a rider and 2 or 3 other people. The record was a family of
7, admittedly 2 of these were babes in arms but even so it was quite a
squeeze. I particularly liked the sight of young ladies dressed
impeccably, as for an evening ball, riding sidesaddle on these noisy
contraptions through the busy, dusty streets of Phnom Penh.
On that first day we were taken 15 Km south of the capital to Choeung Ek where perhaps 17,000 people were killed (mostly clubbed to death to save bullets), many of these were from the interrogation (torture) centre of Tuol Sleng in Phnom Penh.
There was nothing too special about the site, could have been almost anywhere, except for the tower housing shelf upon shelf of victims skulls and the shallow pits all around, some with fragments of clothing and bone fragments. This ordinariness was perhaps the most sobering of aspect of the site for me. I’ve been to German concentration camps in Poland which are horrifying because of the detail – the never-ending columns of names and photographs, the masses of human hair, toothbrushes, artificial limbs, kids toys, eye glasses, suitcases which are from but a tiny fraction of the people put to death there. That made me stop and think how horrible the Nazi’s were but sort of like the Vikings in a way – that sort of remoteness, this made me realise that, for the people of Cambodia, this is not history made before I was born, but life for people in the present (I was in my late 20’s when all this took place).
Tuol Sleng itself was formerly a school, now a holocaust museum showing how the prisoners were kept and tortured. It is every bit as grisly and disturbing as you would expect. I don’t have any snaps of these places, however.
We were picked up at the airport by our hosts from Tabitha, an
organization devoted to the task of helping the poverty-stricken help
themselves through loans (as little as enough money to buy a some packs
of seeds) which they must pay back – thus increasing their own
self-respect. It is incredibly difficult for us to understand this
degree of poverty, the things we take for granted that these people
don’t have would fill the rest this page.
In the evening we met our Tabitha host and organiser Jan
Ritskes at the Foreign Correspondents Club of Cambodia. This club had
balconies overlooking the Tonle Sap River (which joins Indochina’s most
famous river, the Mekong at Phnom Penh) and offers western foods such as
Pizza and baked potatoes. In fact the food was excellent and Tiger beer
(as in Singapore) was freely available on tap. Here we met some
colleagues from the American School of Singapore and were given a brief,
but pointed, run-down on things not to do in the city. Basically if you
went to bed early and kept your head down everything should be alright.
The next day was Monday and after an early morning meeting at
Tabitha we travelled out to the countryside to help build our first
house. The concrete foundations and supporting pillars were in place and
we had to complete the floors walls and roof by nailing wooden boards
into place (corrugated aluminium for the roof). I’m not exactly sure
when we started although I believe we breakfasted at 7 am, anyway, the
last nail went in at 6 pm so it was a long, long, hot day. Jan made us
all dunk our heads in cold water at regular intervals which made me
think of John the Baptist.
On the Tuesday we completed a smaller house in the slums of the
capital. The first house was out in the country, very rural, they had
extensive fields of fruit trees and vegetables with irrigation from the
river. It was easy to believe that people (indeed ourselves) could be
happy in such a setting and not miss our creature comforts all that much
(!). However, you couldn’t possibly kid yourself that living and
raising a family in the slums of Phnom Penh would be a romantic
adventure of any kind. The family we built for had the clothes they
stood up in and that was about it. The average life expectancy in these
slums was about 35 and the infant mortality rate was 50%.
Angkor Wat On Wednesday morning we took a local flight up to Siem Reap which is at the far end of Lake Tonle Sap from Phnom Penh (look it up on Encarta if you don’t believe me). We were met at the airport by Annie who works for Tabitha in the area and a local minibus driver called Seng (hope I spelt it right).
Both these people were wonderful hosts over the next three days and gave us every bit of help that they could to make our stay pleasant and interesting. the hotel at Siem Reap (the Goldianna) was new and well-equipped. Siem Reap is a very pleasant country town and is the gateway to the ruins of the Khmer Kingdom at Angkor inhabited between 802 and 1431 (give or take a year or two).
Nobody is quite sure why this great city was built here it seems, but it is known that this great empire depended upon the Tonle Sap Lake as a source of water for irrigation of rice paddies and for fish. Food was in surplus and this made the empire rich. The lake is unusual in that it occupies a vastly different area in the dry and monsoon season. During the monsoon it fills to the brim and then, when the rain stops, it shrinks to a fraction of its original size, fish are concentrated in the water (as much as 10 tons of fish per sq km of lake water) which makes them relatively easy to catch. Indeed, some fish get caught in the vegetation as the waters recede and can simply be picked up without any nets at all!
Some of the party (including Hania and I) got up at 5:30 am to see the sunrise over the Bayon (above).
What’s left for us to see are a series of truly spectacular ruins of which the most famous are Angkor Wat itself. the building is huge and surrounded by a moat which is, perhaps, the width of the Thames at Richmond and, in my estimation, 2-3 kilometres on a side – all man made needless to say. The three main towers at Angkor along with many courtyards and other buildings still stand are easily the most impressive archaeological remains I have ever seen. Nearby is the city of Angkor Thom (translated as Great City) which is a walled city of 9 sq km and estimated to have held a population of 100,000 people.
This is a magically creepy place (especially by early morning light) of 54 towers, each of which has four enigmatically smiling faces carved upon it – it has to be seen to be believed. We watched the light grow upon its walls and the monks came to tidy up the shrines and get ready for the pilgrims of the day to present incense sticks at the Buddhist shrines and make their devotions. That day we also saw the ruins of the city and several temples including one (Ta Prohm) which is largely overgrown by giant Banyan and other jungle trees.